Friday 23 February 2024

Noor Cordoba

An Andalusian food journey experience


P4 in style


Located in the historical Spanish city of Cordoba, Noor is a one-of-a-kind place you won't find anywhere else. Chef-owner Paco Morales has tapped into the past of Southern Spanish cuisine history, with inspiration from Roman, Isalm to modern days to create something totally unique. This is a tasting menu-only restaurant with a choice of either a short, medium or long menu. In fact, even the short menu contains about 10 courses so you will for sure be here for a long time. I visited in the summer of 2023 and soon after it was promoted from 2 Michelin stars to 3 stars in the 2024 Michelin Guide.


Sheep labneh, pumpkin and pollack

Egg, caviar, caper

Tomato, tangerine, bonito

Pistachio, caviar, green apple

Shrimp, endive, caviar, pork jowl. PX vinegar


Fresh shrimp with caviar offered a mixture of fresh yet bold seafood taste at the same time. I enjoyed the refreshing yet buttery texture of the prawn, while the caviar acted like a natural seasoning together with a slice of pork jowl ham with a small hint of lovely bitterness, everything somehow worked well together. Who knew fish would work with cherries, the grilled seabass was well-seasoned and the mixture of sour cherries and sweet grape juice gave a touch of Asian-style sweet and sour taste. The best dish of the meal was the final main course of roasted pigeon, the meat was so tender and sweet, packed with a really inviting aroma thanks to the black truffle and its liver. It was a classy ending.

Anchoke, pak choi, pumpkin, ham

Oyster, cucumber, chickpea, almond

Grilled wild seabass, cherries, agraz verjus

Roasted pigeon, pate, sage, truffle

Date, orange, jasmine


I have eaten many at many places in Spain before, and for sure Noor is one of the most unusual and interesting restaurants I have been to. I was a little bit afraid that the heavy focus on creativity and story would sacrifice flavour (as I have experienced in Mugaritz) but that wasn't the case with Noor. The service was also excellent, combined with the unusual decor and fine food offering, it was indeed a really special experience for me. 


Food 4.5/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£160

C. Pablo Ruiz Picasso, 8, Sureste, 14014 Córdoba, Spain


https://noorrestaurant.es/

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