Alta

Star in the making

Pork Trotters, Beef Tongue, Tripe Terrine

My second visit to the open fire Spanish-themed Alta in Soho. The concept is rooted in tradition without being trapped by it, and that balance is felt most clearly in how the menu is structured. Rather than overwhelming the table with regional labels or historical explanations, the food speaks through restraint and confidence. Small plates sit alongside more substantial dishes, encouraging a rhythm of eating that mirrors Spanish dining habits without copying them outright. Once the food starts arriving, the logic of the concept becomes even clearer.

Grilled cockles, white wine

Mylor prawns

Razor clams 

The opening dishes tend to be light but purposeful, designed to sharpen the appetite rather than fill it. Cold plates often lead the way, built around seafood or cured elements that rely on balance rather than richness. Both the razorcalm and the Mylor prawn were a great example with their clean, fresh, and sour taste. As the meal progresses, the kitchen leans into deeper flavours. Dishes that involve grilling show a strong understanding of caramelisation and smoke. My sirloin was cooked with respect for its natural fat and structure, very tender and packed with rich depth of charred meaty flavour. The dessert of Basque cheesecake was such a good ending, it was creamy with a soft melting centre, an even better version of the OG La Vina cheesecake back in Spain...

Squid, Lardo, ‘Vizcaina’ Red Pepper Sauce

35 Day Aged Dorset Sirloin, Smoked Bone Marrow

Basque cheesecake

The kitchen shows an understanding that Spanish food is often at its best when it resists decoration and instead focuses on depth, texture, and timing. After a few months of trading, it got so much better, and I am pleased to see Alta doesn’t attempt to redefine Spanish cooking, nor does it present itself as a nostalgic exercise. It operates in the middle ground, where respect for tradition meets an understanding of contemporary dining habits. The food feels confident enough to be quiet, and that confidence is what ultimately defines the experience. The result is a meal that feels thoughtful, composed, and complete. You don’t leave talking about a single standout dish so much as the coherence of the whole experience.

Food 3.5/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£70


Ground Floor, Kingly Ct, Carnaby, London W1B 5PW

https://alta-restaurant.com/