A real "Kitchen Table" experience
Bubblesdogs came to my radar when it was opened last year. It is a pretty modern concept: Serving gourmet hot dogs and champagne. It has become a somewhat winning formula as I noticed the long queue outside every time when I walked past Charlotte Street. But I didn't take much interest in it because first, I am not much of a fan in hot dogs, and also I just can't handle champagne! But I was informed by people from Roganic and The Ledbury that there is a kitchen table at the back of Bubblesdogs and it serves a full on tasting menu, where guests sit behind the kitchen watching the food prepared and cooked in front of them.
|Kitchen Table "theatre"|
I decided to give it a go as it was highly recommended by the front of house staff from Roganic and The Ledbury. No choice on the menu, a fixed 13 course tasting menu served on small plates one after another. The first course was already a winner. The shrimp had a smart combination of elements in the malt crackers with the grainy notes worked surprisingly well with the sweet shrimp. The chicken skin with bacon jam was packed with savoury flavours with a small hint of sweetness.
I was speechless with the scallop dish, it was close to perfection with that smooth and silky texture lingering at the back of your palate. I've had plenty of scallop dishes over the years in London and the scallop I had at Helene Darroze at the Connaught was the only one that can rival Kitchen Table's. Other highlights of the evening was the butternut squash pasta with shaved truffle, it had a creamy texture but not overly thick, good balance of sweetness and earthiness. The pigeon was the best dish of the evening, the breast was moist, very tender with hints of smokiness while the leg was a little dryer but more robust in flavours.
Dinner at the Kitchen Table turned out to be an amazing experience, the food was elegant, smart and with a touch of imagination and totally delivered in taste. The service was also excellent, very knowledgeable with the food, well mannered, spoken with care and passion. To top it off it was also great to sit behind the kitchen watching the show and interact with the chefs. The whole meal was easily at least a Michelin star or two in my views. With a ever changing daily menu, I will definitely return to this wonderful venue.
Brie de Meaux
What I paid:
£140 with 2 glasses of wine
Average cost without drinks and services:
£88 tasting menu
70 Charlotte St, London W1T 4QG