Thursday, 14 July 2022

Aulis London

 Dinner for 8, Rogan's style 


Carrot dumpling with tarragon and pickled onions


I always enjoy tasting menu format in a counter dining space when you are able to engage with the chefs, so Aulis is just the kind of restaurant I just know it is my cup of tea. On top of that, it is a concept by Simon Rogan, and I have been to all of his other London restaurants Roganic and Fera (sadly both are now closed, both top-level restaurants),  so I had high expectations of Aulis. Given it only has 8 seats per day, it is a mission to book a table, and you likely need to book 4 months ahead to secure a seat with a prepayment policy too.


Ox in coal oil, caper jam and cured egg yolk

Mussel and seaweed custard with beef tendons and caviar

Roasted kohlrabi broth


The first dish from the tasting menu is an all-time Simon classic Ox in coal oil, the beef tartar had a smoky, almost whisky-like aroma, and was seasoned to perfection using caper. Interestingly enough, the vegan-friendly carrot dumpling with tarragon happened to be the best dish. The texture and sweetness were perfect, with just a small hint of earthiness creeping in, that was balanced off by the grassy tarragon. The day boat turbot looked simple but a lot of hard work went into it. I really enjoyed the fish mousse on top of the turbot which was cooked with fish bone, the creamy buttery taste worked finely with the meaty texture of the turbot.

Turbot, Courgette, lovage and smoked bone sauce

Launceston lamb, broad beans and black garlic

Bee pollen, strawberries and marigold

My dinner at Aulis was wonderful, with some classic Simon dishes with his hallmark flavours in place, as well as some modern creative ideas by head chef Charlie. The chefs are also the serving staff, but they all managed to do a good job, and it was great to be able to understand the food and cooking concepts from chatting with them. Aulis is a solid 1-star restaurant for me, so it is a big shock that, despite it having been opened for years, it is still lacking one. I wonder if it is because the inspector is yet able to secure a booking yet!


Food 4/5


What I paid: 
£230 per head, with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£155


16a St Anne's Ct, London W1F 0BF


https://www.aulis.london/

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