Victor Garvey Restaurant at Midland Grand

Great, but could be better

Canapes

​The Midland Grand Dining Room is not new to me, as I was a fan of its refined French food when it was overseen by chef Patrick Powell. He has since moved on, and the place is now under the guidance of Michelin-starred chef Victor Garvey. Garvey's approach marries traditional French haute cuisine with contemporary flair, resulting in dishes that are both elegant and innovative. His offering is for sure in the fine dining end with 2 tasting menus on offer, so it appears it is gunning for a Michelin star. The restaurant's ambiance, characterized by its Gothic charm and modern elegance, provides a fitting backdrop for the culinary artistry on display.

Foie and raspberries

Crab, peas, miso, eel

Lobster, carrot and spices

I went for the long tasting menu, which features a selection of meticulously crafted dishes that highlight the finest ingredients and modern techniques. Standout offerings include butter-poached native lobster finished tableside with perhaps the poshest sausage I have encountered, scallop and lobster seafood sausage, which was brilliant. The lobster dish easily rivals the lobster dish at Helen Darroze's. Less successful was the red mullet dish; it was overcooked, and some rocky errors with some small bones left inside the fish. It was very underwhelming, and the only good thing about the dish was the rich fish sauce. 

Red mullet, saffron, black garlic

Duck, pear, sesame

Chocolate, cep, almond

Overall, The Midland Grand Dining Room delivers a dining experience that pays homage to classic French cuisine while embracing modern sensibilities, all within a setting that exudes historical significance and contemporary sophistication. But clearly it is still early days, as not everything worked for me with some technical errors. These are easy to fix, so once the kitchen team is able to overcome those challenges, it could become a very special place. It is great now, but it could be even better.

Food 3.5/5


What I paid: 
£250 per head with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£125

St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Rd., London NW1 2AR

https://www.midlandgranddiningroom.com/