Saturday, 7 August 2021

Alma

A tribute to Portugal's fish and seafood


Scarlett Shrimp, açorda, seaweed

I visited Alma back in 2017 when it gained a Michelin star not long ago, and the chef-owner Henrique Sá Pessoa was considered a rising star chef in Lisbon. Fast forward to 2021, I return to Alma once again for my second visit. It has since gained another Michelin star and the menu has also become a lot more expensive, as you would be expected. The tasting menu cost 85 euro back then and now is 145 euro, which is a sky-high increase. The main reason I had faith to return is down to my first meal at Alma was very enjoyable and I was keen on how the restaurant has developed over the years to warrant its second star.


Canapés

Pork skin and dried pork

Fish and shellfish caldeirada

I opted for the Costa menu which is Alma's seafood tasting menu, and oh boy I was so glad I picked that, as everything single savory dish happened to be exceptional. Even the canapes were seriously good, the dry minced Iberico pork on pork skin cracker had a lovely crunchy texture and great depth of savory note. I had nothing but love for the scarlet shrimp, the kitchen used the head juice to create such a rich, thick, and intense sauce. The shrimp was sweet and as fresh as it could be, with the seaweed and herbs added a hint of anise aroma which worked well with the shellfish. Just when you don't think it could get any better, the Azorean parrotfish have proven me so wrong. The fish was so smooth and moist, with a rich umami taste from the xo sauce and chorizo, this is fine dining fish cooking at the highest order.

Parrot fish, fava beans, Alentejo pork chorizo

John Dory, clams, white asparagus
Citrus, yuzu sorbet, crystallized algae, citrus curd

Without a doubt, Alma has improved a lot vs my first visit, and it totally deserved its double Michelin stars. There wasn't one weak dish from the tasting menu, if I am to be picky, I guess perhaps the desserts weren't as good. Having said that, Alma really has gone from strength to strength and I was so pleased that I returned. The service on the night was also really strong, very professional, and friendly, so Alma is really the full fine dining package. Out of all the restaurants I have been to in Lisbon, I would rate it as the best yet, which is a bold statement as I have also been to Belcanto!



Food 4.5/5

What I paid: 

£150 per head with water

Average cost without drinks and services:


£145 tasting menu

R. Anchieta 15, 1200-224 Lisboa, Portugal

http://www.almalisboa.pt/en

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