Barnaby Padstow

The art of whole fish cooking

BBQ red mullet, harissa bouillabaisse, fennel aioli

From the people behind the fishmonger and seafood bar Prawn on the Lawn, Barnaby is a mini restaurant with less than 20 covers in Padstow. The restaurant pride itself on using prime Cornish ingredients, with a touch of international elements to enhance the local ingredients. The menu is has a range of tapas size dishes, as well as large sharing plates for sharing. I could see many Mediterranean influences with harissa, pomegranate, and mojo verde, which makes it stand out within Padstow as most other restaurants champion classic Cornish cuisine. I went in a large group so I had the chance to sample most dishes on the menu.

Crab toast, muhammara, watercress, walnut

John Dory

Out of all the small plates, I enjoyed the BBQ red mullet the most, the harissa bouillabaisse had a rich buttery seafood aroma, it was so inviting when it combined with the smokiness of the charred fish skin. Whole grilled John Dory was whole fish cooking at its best, simply cooked with some lemon, garlic, and rosemary. The fish was so moist and fresh, really couldn't fault it at all. A large cut of 700g ribeye by the famous local butcher Philip Warren was also outstanding, you know you are in for a treat when the meat is from Philip Warren, the meat was super tender, finely seasoned, and had a lovely bold savory taste to it, but if I was to be a fuss, it was served medium when I asked for medium-rare.

Marinated lamb, BBQ flat bread, green sauce

Cornish ribeye steak

Service-wise it was not the finest, however, as when the restaurant was packed, the front of the house was clearly understaffed and it was hard to get the attention of the 2 waiters and some orders went missing. That aside, Cornwall is so blessed with so many amazing locals produces, and Barnaby has taken full advantage of it and done a fine job turning out lovely dishes. That Mediterranean element does give it a cutting edge and created some really interesting flavours that are not common in Cornwall. As it is a tiny restaurant, booking is a must to avoid disappointment.

Food 3/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£40

22a, Duke St, Padstow PL28 8AB

https://barnabyspadstow.com/