Contemporary food art in Milan
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Tomato, basil and burrata |
Chef Andrea Aprea held 2 Michelin stars back in the days when he was the executive chef for VUN hotel in Milan. In late 2022, he fulfilled his dream of having his very own restaurant, launched within an art museum on the top floor of the Luigi Rovati Foundation. Within the space of half a year since opening, the restaurant got a Michelin star to its name, something truly amazing. The restaurant space itself is also impressive, with an open kitchen on display in front of very few tables (about 16 covers), yet it has close to 25 staff for one service. There is 3 menu to pick from, a 4, 6 and 8 menu, but all have their very own dishes without overlapping.
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Red Prawn Chicory, Pioppini Mushrooms, Hazelnuts |
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Quail Pumpkin, Coffee, Almonds |
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Potato Amatriciana style “In Stagnola” |
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“Selezione Gentile” black Linguina Pasta |
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Buffalo Ricotta Tortello Double concentration of Neapolitan Ragou |
I went for the signature menu which is the longest, it combined popular dishes from Andrea Aprea over the years so in a way, it is his greatest hit. The first course of red shrimp with mushrooms was stunning, the sweet umami taste was powerful, yet it tasted very fresh at the same time, everything worked in harmony on the plate. The giant buffalo ricotta tortelloni was stuffed with some really rich beef ragu, the whole dish was really bold and intense, and the creamy and buttery taste of the cheese made it very enjoyable. The main event of slow-cooked pork belly was perhaps the weakest dish of the night, the taste was fine, but felt pretty underwhelming without any exciting elements.
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Turbot “Mugnaia“ Style |
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100 hours Black Pork Radicchio, Honey, Chili Pepper |
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Lemon sorbet |
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Rhubarb White chocolate, Peanuts |
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P4 |
The whole dinner was a proper modern fine dining experience, with some well-crafted food within a sophisticated setting with great service to match. Perhaps it is still early days and the restaurant is still young, I think it is Michelin 1 star for sure but still someway off from reaching the 2 stars I am sure Andre aspired to reach. For sure it has a great foundation, and I am sure the kitchen will progress further as time moves.
Food 4/5
Average cost without drinks and services:
£180
Corso Venezia, 52, 20122 Milano MI, Italy
https://www.andreaaprea.com/en/
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