Contraste Milan

 Enjoyable mind game in Milan

Strawberry and tuna sauce Creme brulée with figs and foie gras Sardines "in saor"

The like of Fat Duck by Heston and El Bulli by Ferran Adrià has put molecular gastronomy cuisine on the map more than 15 years ago. Back then it was grand breaking and turned the dining experience into a fantasy journey and not just a dinner. Fast forward to 2023, such cuisine become common in many parts of the fine dining world but has also lost the hype it used to command. At the end of the day, is it just gimmicks? Contraste in Milan doesn't offer many clues when you check its website, and it does feel like you put your trust in the kitchen team to deliver a tasting menu that is full of surprises.

Red onion and goat cheese
Langoustine's rose and ceviche sauce
Amberjack mosaic and citrus fruits
Ox sashimi, foie gras, umeboshi and bearnaise sauce

Scallops noodles, parmesan foam and dashi broth
Cuttlefish tartare and chorizo sauce
Octopus and potatoes s+ "Carbonara" 

Lobster and “zabaione” 

Monkfish and in ox tail sauce 

Mussels “cacio e pepe” 

“Milanese” risotto and bone marrow broth

I know very little about what I am getting myself into, and even once the food arrived, it had molecular gastronomy concepts written all over it. A plate of ravioli turned out to be saffron risotto with the sauce being a roasted veal roasting juice. A piece of BBQ turnip has a whole lobster hidden inside, all really interesting and delivers a wow factor. What impressed me more however is most of those dishes delivered on taste. The seafood The star dish of the night was a piece of BBQ Iberico pork pluma, it had a sea urchin and yogurt dressing that worked wonderfully with the bold umami and buttery taste of the pork.

"Bolognese" donut

Veal and banana bone marrow  

Pluma of Iberian pork, sea urchins and burrata cheese

Grilled ox and "bresaola" of ox

Pulp fiction coconut

Rose's cake and vanilla ice cream

20 dishes later, I had one of the most unusual dining experiences, and in a good way too. I felt the restaurant had a good balance of creative concepts matching great flavours, and it is difficult to get it right. You will need to drop any expectations when dining at Contrate, go with an open mind, and be ready to encounter something strange and wonderful. This place totally deserves its Michelin star rating. 

Food 4/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£150

Via Giuseppe Meda, 2, 20136 Milano MI, Italy

https://contrastemilano.it/