One Club Row

 Jazzy feel-good dining vibe

Roasted scallop, confit garlic butter

One Club Row, located above The Knave of Clubs in Shoreditch, is a bold, stylish newcomer that merges Parisian bistro charm with New York tavern swagger. Opened in early 2025 by hospitality heavyweights Patrick Powell, James Dye, and Benjy Leibowitz, it’s already a standout in London’s dining scene. The entrance, discreet enough to miss if you're distracted by your phone, opens into a velvet-draped stairwell lit like a film set. The menu, crafted by Powell and head chef Attila Gellen, is a greatest-hits album of French and American comfort food, elevated with finesse.

Lobster & country ham croquettes

Classic steak tartare, beef dripping toast

French onion soup

We opened with the Lobster & Country Ham Croquettes. These were golden, crunchy pillows with a creamy, seafood-heavy interior—rich, but balanced with salt from the ham and bright citrus aioli on the side. They're the kind of thing you order “to share” and immediately regret doing so. The Pork Schnitzel: Breaded, fried, served with a mustard-ale sauce and streaks of gorgonzola cream, it could’ve been heavy-handed. It wasn’t. Instead, it was both hearty and hypnotic—the kind of plate that warms the soul without sinking you like a stone. If I need to pick on something, it is that everything is on the heavy end of salt seasoning, so it might not be appealing for those who prefer lighter things.

Pork schnitzel, sauce moutarde, gorgonzola

Roasted cod cooked in brown butter

Dutch baby

At the end of the day, dining isn’t just about taste—it’s about mood, memory, and atmosphere. One Club Row gets this. From the first pour to the last bite, you’re held in a kind of elegant trance. The meal isn’t rushed. The courses arrive as if on cue. You look around and notice other tables smiling. That’s the kind of thing you remember. It’s a reminder of why we go out to eat in the first place, not just for nourishment, but for connection, surprise, and joy. P.S. The cocktails here are just as good!

Food 3.5/5


What I paid: 
£120 per head with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£60

1 Club Row, London E1 6JX

https://oneclubrow.com/