Friday, 5 December 2025

Restaurant St. Barts

Great British essence in a fine dining manner


British wagyu and crab toast


Set in Smithfield, Restaurant St. Barts overlooks St Bartholomew the Great church; floor-to-ceiling windows frame the ancient architecture, giving a breathing space to the urban surroundings. The interior leans Scandinavian in its aesthetic sensibilities—clean lines, warm woods. Restaurant St. Barts delivers a deeply considered, hyper-seasonal modern British tasting-menu experience. Executive Chef Johnnie Crowe and his team build plates around the minimalism of concept: usually only two or three ingredients per dish, each flourishing in its own right. 

Frog by Adam Handling

Playful British creativity takes on tasting menu


Canapes of chicken, crab, eel, mussels and cheese


Stepping into the single Michelin-starred Frog by Adam Handling in the heart of Covent Garden is an invitation to experience modern British fine dining with a theatrical twist. The open-kitchen layout means you're not just seated in a restaurant—you’re part of the show. At the heart of the experience is chef-owner Adam Handling’s philosophy of “fine dining without the stuffiness” paired with rigorous technique. One caveat: the price tag reflects the aspiration. With tasting menus from around £195 and optional supplements and wine pairings... it is not a cheap affair.

Portland

 Modern upmarket British template


Canapes of scallop, mushroom and liver


Stepping into Portland on Great Portland Street in Fitzrovia, you first notice how the space quietly declares its intentions: no pomp, but precision; no grand gestures, but thoughtful design. The food at Portland is modern British with a strong seasonal bent, rooted in high-quality produce and technique. The menu changes frequently—ingredients and dishes rotate in response to what’s fresh, what’s at its best. This is my 4th visit, and once again I opted for the private dining room experience with a special menu for a special celebration.


Potato salad with black truffle

Roasted sweetbread and corns

Beef Wellington...


The kitchen shows off a careful, almost gentle hand with its ingredients—nothing feels overworked; the aim is always clarity and harmony. The cured mackerel was rich with a sweet undertone. The tomato dashi added a freshness, while the hazelnut added texture without overwhelming it. The main event was a giant 'Beef Wellington', which used the finest fillet cut aka chateaubriand. As expected, it was super tender. The pastry is crisp, the beef interior tender, and the black truffle and mushrooms added great depth; and that very rich black truffle and bone marrow sauce ties it together with its savory weight. It was easily the best Wellington I have encountered.

...with truffle sauce!

Tomato salad, grilled peppers and potato

Apple tarte tatin


Portland, in summary, offers a food-and-wine experience that feels rare in its combination of high standards and approachability. It holds a Michelin star (which it has retained since soon after opening in 2015) but doesn’t demand the formalities that sometimes come with that territory. Yes, the pricing is premium—tasting menus cost over £100, and à la carte dinners are not cheap—but you get what you pay for: meticulous cooking, imaginative combinations, generous wine pairing options, and service that treats you like more than a number. I would be more than happy to head back in the near future.


Food 4/5

What I paid:
£128 with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£110 (Tasting menu)

113 Great Portland St, London W1W 6QQ

https://portlandrestaurant.co.uk/

Michael Caines at The Stafford

The return of old school fine French


Orkney Scallop Ceviche, Oscietra caviar


Michael Caines at The Stafford is an eagerly awaited addition to London’s fine-dining scene, bringing together timeless elegance, a celebrated chef’s pedigree, and a renewed culinary vision steeped in British terroir. Located in St. James’s, the restaurant has taken over from the former Game Bird, under the stewardship of Michael Caines as culinary strategist. If you are a foodie, Michael shouldn't be an unfamiliar name as he is a true legend in the game, who held 2 Michelin stars in the past with his classic French cooking in Devon. His restaurant at TheStafford is his first London gig, and I was so looking forward to it. 

Moi

One-of-a-kind Japanese 


Bluefin Tuna Tataki, Karashi Miso, Grapefruit


A new Japanese-themed restaurant similar to the spirit of Roka and Zuma, the design is bold, heavily featured fine woods with atmospheric lighting, and yet it never feels overly theatrical. The heart of MOI lies in its cuisine: Japanese-inspired, yes, but deeply rooted in British produce and executed with fire, finesse and flavour. The kitchen is led by Andy Cook and head chef Nick Tannett, combining Japanese technique with British sourcing. Part of the charm is the dual nature of the space: the ground-level grill and sushi counter buzz with energy and the aroma of firewood.