Friday, 5 December 2025

Portland

 Modern upmarket British template


Canapes of scallop, mushroom and liver


Stepping into Portland on Great Portland Street in Fitzrovia, you first notice how the space quietly declares its intentions: no pomp, but precision; no grand gestures, but thoughtful design. The food at Portland is modern British with a strong seasonal bent, rooted in high-quality produce and technique. The menu changes frequently—ingredients and dishes rotate in response to what’s fresh, what’s at its best. This is my 4th visit, and once again I opted for the private dining room experience with a special menu for a special celebration.


Potato salad with black truffle

Roasted sweetbread and corns

Beef Wellington...


The kitchen shows off a careful, almost gentle hand with its ingredients—nothing feels overworked; the aim is always clarity and harmony. The cured mackerel was rich with a sweet undertone. The tomato dashi added a freshness, while the hazelnut added texture without overwhelming it. The main event was a giant 'Beef Wellington', which used the finest fillet cut aka chateaubriand. As expected, it was super tender. The pastry is crisp, the beef interior tender, and the black truffle and mushrooms added great depth; and that very rich black truffle and bone marrow sauce ties it together with its savory weight. It was easily the best Wellington I have encountered.

...with truffle sauce!

Tomato salad, grilled peppers and potato

Apple tarte tatin


Portland, in summary, offers a food-and-wine experience that feels rare in its combination of high standards and approachability. It holds a Michelin star (which it has retained since soon after opening in 2015) but doesn’t demand the formalities that sometimes come with that territory. Yes, the pricing is premium—tasting menus cost over £100, and à la carte dinners are not cheap—but you get what you pay for: meticulous cooking, imaginative combinations, generous wine pairing options, and service that treats you like more than a number. I would be more than happy to head back in the near future.


Food 4/5

What I paid:
£128 with wine

Average cost without drinks and services:
£110 (Tasting menu)

113 Great Portland St, London W1W 6QQ

https://portlandrestaurant.co.uk/

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