Michael Caines at The Stafford

The return of old school fine French

Orkney Scallop Ceviche, Oscietra caviar

Michael Caines at The Stafford is an eagerly awaited addition to London’s fine-dining scene, bringing together timeless elegance, a celebrated chef’s pedigree, and a renewed culinary vision steeped in British terroir. Located in St. James’s, the restaurant has taken over from the former Game Bird, under the stewardship of Michael Caines as culinary strategist. If you are a foodie, Michael shouldn't be an unfamiliar name as he is a true legend in the game, who held 2 Michelin stars in the past with his classic French cooking in Devon. His restaurant at TheStafford is his first London gig, and I was so looking forward to it. 

Confit Duck & Duck Liver Terrine, Pickled Apple

Roasted Brixham Turbot Shellfish chowder, Oscietra caviar, Oyster

Roast Pigeon Baby leek, celeriac and truffle purée

The menu at Michael Caines at The Stafford is where the promise really becomes visible. It’s French fine dining built around seasonal British produce, with emphasis on sustainability and local sourcing, gestures toward land and sea, and a clear intention to marry technical precision with character and flavour. The pan-roasted Brixham turbot paired with shellfish chowder is a high point—moist, perfectly flavoured turbot forming a centrepiece, with the chowder both comforting and precise. The sauce is rich without being heavy; creamy without stealing the spotlight, and the shellfish elements lend briny clarity, giving texture and a sea-kiss finish. Another strong dish is the pigeon, which was cooked just right. Caines’ terroir focus comes through, the garnishes accompaniments of herbs, seasonal roots, greens, perhaps a hint of smoke or roasted earthiness, all meant to echo British seasons rather than overwhelm with exotic showmanship.

Stoke Marsh Farm Hereford Beef Braised beef cheek, watercress purée

Chocolate Orange Confit Mousse

Pistachio souffle

The food consistency is high, but on a rare occasion, a dish might feel a touch over-elaborated rather than simply expressive (the scallop dressing was too sour). I also feel the portion size could be bigger, given the price tag is at such a premium (£165 for tasting menu). I am fully aware it is early days, so I am sure it can only get better. The Stafford has switched from old school British to old school French. While I loved the Game Bird, Michael Caines is perhaps even better, as the technical precision was easy to see. Not many high-end fine French restaurants are left in London these days, so the launch of Michael Caines at The Stafford is a welcome addition.

Food 4/5


Average cost without drinks and services:
£60

The Stafford London, 16-18 St James's Place, London SW1A 1NJ

https://thestaffordlondon.com/michael-caines-at-the-stafford