Great British essence in a fine dining manner
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| British wagyu and crab toast |
Set in Smithfield, Restaurant St. Barts overlooks St Bartholomew the Great church; floor-to-ceiling windows frame the ancient architecture, giving a breathing space to the urban surroundings. The interior leans Scandinavian in its aesthetic sensibilities—clean lines, warm woods. Restaurant St. Barts delivers a deeply considered, hyper-seasonal modern British tasting-menu experience. Executive Chef Johnnie Crowe and his team build plates around the minimalism of concept: usually only two or three ingredients per dish, each flourishing in its own right.
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| Bread and canapes |
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| Scallop and cured pork |
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| Lobster and tomato |
There’s a strong undercurrent of preservation — fermented, smoked, cured — but it never feels like a gimmick. It feels like the kitchen respects time, letting ingredients tell their own story instead of forcing one on them. A scallop, layered with cured pork, offered a nutty and oily aroma; it was very savory but managed to taste fresh at the same time. The lobster and tomato dish was a total winner, cooked just right with such a clean tomato broth that was filled with such a powerful umami taste, which paired perfectly with the grilled lobster. Throughout the meal, there’s a through-line of smoke, acidity, and texture — a reminder that the team behind this kitchen knows how to make simplicity feel complex.
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| Turbot and miso |
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| Scottish Highland wagyu rump and seaweed |
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| Honey and lavender tart |
Restaurant St. Barts is one of the most exciting fine-dining experiences in London right now. It respects where it sits in history and geography, it respects its Great British ingredients and producers, and its aesthetic and service match the ambition of its menu. If you’re seeking a meal that’s more than just food — where each course is part of a story, where design and provenance matter — St. Barts is well worth the splurge. For those less comfortable with tasting menus or big bills, some of the lunch or set meal options temper the investment without compromising too much on essence.
Food 4/5
What I paid:
£170 per head with wine
Average cost without drinks and services:
£140
63 Bartholomew Cl, London EC1A 7BF
https://www.restaurant-stbarts.co.uk/
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