Friday, 5 December 2025

Frog by Adam Handling

Playful British creativity takes on tasting menu


Canapes of chicken, crab, eel, mussels and cheese


Stepping into the single Michelin-starred Frog by Adam Handling in the heart of Covent Garden is an invitation to experience modern British fine dining with a theatrical twist. The open-kitchen layout means you're not just seated in a restaurant—you’re part of the show. At the heart of the experience is chef-owner Adam Handling’s philosophy of “fine dining without the stuffiness” paired with rigorous technique. One caveat: the price tag reflects the aspiration. With tasting menus from around £195 and optional supplements and wine pairings... it is not a cheap affair.


Sea bream and seaweed

Lobster, caviar cooked in wagyu fat

Cheese and onion pasta


Upon arrival, you’re greeted with inventive “snacks”—not mere amuse-bouches but bold, playful bites served with presentation flourishes (dry ice, beakers of smoke, etc.). Clearly, this is a restaurant that wears its ambition on its sleeve, promising more than just dinner—it promises theatre, discovery, and surprise. I was a big fan of the bread course, freshly baked park house with a side of whipped chicken butter and liver pâté, a humble nod to the Sunday-roast table that’s been dialed up to luxury. The Scottish halibut, on the other hand, was underwhelming. It was clearly overcooked and seasoned with salt to the extreme, such a shame. The signature dish, lobster cooked in wagyu beef fat, was outstanding; it was surf and turf overloaded with rich umami sensation, and the caviar pops like punctuation.

Scottish halibut and courgette

Roasted duck, apricot, cobnuts

Verbena, Earl Grey, peach


Service and atmosphere round out the experience in ways that feel upscale yet authentic. The staff here balances polished precision with warmth, explaining each dish’s provenance and technique without slipping into pretension. Frog delivers an experience: the kind you book because you’ve got time, appetite, and a taste for creativity. But perhaps best come for the lunch menu, where the price is less eyewatering. When you pay over £200 for food alone, I am expecting something truly exceptional, at least a 2 Michelin stars quality level, and Frog for me isn't at that standard yet.


Food 4/5

What I paid: 
£250 per person


Average cost without drinks and services
£199 (dinner)


34-35 Southampton St, London WC2E 7HG


https://www.frogbyadamhandling.com/

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