London's Fine Dining Champ
Trout, rose, apple |
Restaurants, bars, products, events.... Food and drinks reviews, topics and everything in between.
Trout, rose, apple |
Octopus, flat bread, eel, chive |
Roast duck a l’orange |
Scallop, carrot, smoked roe |
Scallops, bacon, malt vinegar |
Lobster vol au vent, carrot |
From the same people behind the much-loved Quality Chop House (Woodhead group), 64 Goodge Street is a brand-new French restaurant that does things completely different vs what the group is renowned for, which is British cuisine. Instead, 64 Goodge Street is all about looking into traditional French cuisine, then reformulating to something with a modern British touch, that might scare off hardcore traditionalists. The ALC menu is short, with less than 9 dishes to pick from between starters and mains, but this could be a good sign as it means the restaurant is able to master and focus on these dishes very well.
Dim sum selection |
Brittary pigeon, greengage, garlic, wasabi |
The last time I dined at Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, it was in 2020 when the UK was slowly coming out from lockdown. It was my 8th visit and also the best meal I have had from Helene. It was since promoted to a 3 Michelin stars restaurant in 2021, a remarkable achievement. Fast forward to 2023, I have decided to head back to see what has changed. The tasting menu is now at £215 per person, and I could see some classic dishes are still on the menu, such as the baba.
Squid, clam, girolles |
I have noticed counter dining has been popping up a lot recently, from Humble Chicken, Behind to Abajo... a new wave of high-end counter concepts has been flooding London, usually with an aspiration of reaching Michelin star status. Counter 71 was launched in the summer of 2023, with a concept of only using British ingredients, headed up by chef Joe Laker, serving a long British-themed tasting menu format of about 12 dishes. With only 16 seats looking over the kitchen space. The meal kicked with bite-size canapes, before switching to bigger plates of food and then 3 rounds of desserts.
Squid, courgette, amalfi lemon |
I have been writing on this food blog for over 10 years, and lately, I have slowed down catching on trying to visit as many new openings as possible. Instead, I keep going back to places I enjoy and I got to the point that, having eaten around London, I kind of got an idea of what type of food I seek. That is until I encountered Abjano by Humo. I am always a bit funny about fusion cooking, but when I discovered a hidden counter dining fusion restaurant overseen by a sushi master Endo Kazutoshi, I couldn't ignore it, and it turned out I enjoyed it so much I went back again a few months later...
Kitchen Table |
All the chicken: Roasted chicken, chicken pies and legs |
I last visited The Grill at The Dorchester back last Christmas, and since then it had a massive change as it has recently rebranded to The Grill by Tom Booton, as Tom has now been promoted to be the executive chef of the restaurant. The menu also switched from a 4-course ALC format, to a more informal 3-course all-day dining ALC offering, along with a range of pre-starter snacks. Tom's style of cooking is just what I enjoy: bold and rich. So I was excited to return for the 9th time to see what he has got to offer from his brand new menu.
King crab legs stir fry Hong Kong wind shelter style |
Noble Palace is my go-to place for a special Chinese dining occasion when I want something that you would normally not able to find in a typical Chinese restaurant in London. The beauty of this place is that you are able to pre-order pretty much any Chinese dishes you would like as long as you give them notice in advance. This keeps this place exciting and gives me a good reason to head back for more. For the 16th visit, I have requested Noble Palace to prepare an Alaskan crab dish.
Truffle and mushrooms rice rolls |
Park Chinois is easily my no 1 choice for classy innovative Chinese cuisine. It is also my most visited restaurant in the UK (if you exclude fast food places). I never had a bad meal at Park Chinois as the team of skilled chefs knew how to deliver the true essence of Chinese cuisine in a refined manner. For Cantonese-style dim sum, they are easily the best in London. For my 25th visit, I went full-on dim sum mode and ordered a large selection to share among friends and family.
8-day aged yellowtail, citrus sauce & Castillo coffee |
Grilled John Dorey |
Part of the Creative Restaurant Group's offering, which also contains Humo and Sumi, 20 Berkeley is a modern British restaurant in Mayfair that offers a club feel vibe focusing on prime British ingredients. The decor has a retro British Embassy vibe for me, and the menu is simple and easy to understand. with no gimmicks, no ground-breaking ideas, just smart-looking British cuisine done in a refined manner. Since launching, I visited the venue twice, the first time I opted for large plates, sharing style feasting dishes. And the second time I ordered from its standard ALC menu.
Spider crab omelet |
Tuna, smoked artichoke, Amalfi lemon |
Pork, carrot and mushrooms |
Seafood cocktail, Kent style |
House salad, French fries and John Dorey |
The Midland Grand is a brand-new restaurant within the stunning-looking, Renaissance Hotel in King Cross. The same space used to be The Gibert Scott by Marcus Wreaing, where I had a very average meal before Covid. So when the news that the super talented chef Patrick Powell (who also heads up Allegra where I had 2 great meals) has taken over and the whole space got a revamp, I was excited to see what has changed, the concept is all about fine dining French cuisine, but in a casual, creative manner.
Suckling pig bao |
Orange spare ribs |
Xiao long bao, truffle dumplings, scallop dumplings and dried shrimp rolls |
Peking duck with black truffle pancake |
Deer puff and wagyu puff |
Canapes of carrot, salmon and onion |
Squid ink prawn toast |
Despite it having only been open for a year, I can't believe I have been to Noble Palce for 13th times already. The low-key fine-dining Chinese dining den is one of my favorite places for dim sum lunch. Unlike many of its Chinatown counterparts, it is not very busy and overcrowded, and the food offering is on another level. The price per dim sum is almost double of course, but you pay for the craftsmanship. No msg, no colouring, and plenty of fine ingredients, like Iberico pork, truffle, and Cornish crab.
Devon crab, nashi pear, pickled mooli, ponzu, dill oil |
Afternoon tea |
Warm Smoked Eel, Potato & Avruga Caviar |
Roast Chicken, Morels & Vin Jaune, Riz au Pilaf |
Crab, mussels and tomato soup |
Dim sum at Golden Dragon |
Wagyu beef and taro puff with caviar |
Curry softshell crab |
Cod roe cream and sourdough bread |
Crispy Pig Cheek, Chicory and Spring Onion |
Canapes |
Canapes |
Cantoense style roasted suckling pig |
BBQ lobster, cacao, spices, carrot with lobster sauce |
I normally shy away from special one-off chef collaboration dinner events, especially when one of the chefs is coming from overseas, as they might not be familiar with the local ingredients or working in someone else's kitchen. There is a strong chance you would end up not really getting the true level that the oversea chef is really capable of. However, I got to give Mickael Viljanen from Ireland an expectation as I had a really wonderful meal from Greenhouse Dublin when he was the chef there. He has since moved to Chapter One (also in Dublin) and many would rate it the best restaurant in Ireland. So this was a good opp for me when he is coming over to the UK to team up with Alex Dilling at Cafe Royal.
Peas and peas soup |
Bread service |
Poached shrimps |
Wood fire oven for meat roasting |
Clams in wine and garlic |
Supreme Royal Dim Sum Platter |
What makes Chinese restaurants stand out compared to other types of restaurants is usually the menu, it tends to have a big menu with at least 100 dishes. The latest opening Gouqi by Chinese chef legend Tong Chee Hwee is no exception. From my first visit, I had the tasting menu but there are still so many other dishes on its ALC menu I would like to try as what makes this place stand out is the rare dishes that you won't find elsewhere in London, such as scorpion fish and stuffed egg yolk char siu pork, which all sounds really inviting. Below captured my 2nd and 3rd visits.
Prawn tartar and octopus in rice wine |
Chilian seabass in a sweet soy glaze |
Despite only launching in the summer of 2022, I can't believe I have already been to Noble Palace 10 times. What can I say, I really enjoy the low-key and relaxing yet classy setting of the venue, and its Cantonese food offering is endless, which enables me to make any special requests. For those who like to stick to traditional items, Noble Palace also does it really well, and it's hard to go wrong, but not easy to make it exceptional at the same time. Therefore, for my 10th and 11th visits, I went for the house's classics, with a few new specials.